Why Cyclists on the C&O Canal Should Visit Paw Paw, WV area: A Rider's Perspective on a Small Trail Town
- Steve Nelson
- Sep 25
- 5 min read
As a cyclist who has pedaled the length of the Chesapeake & Ohio (C&O) Canal Towpath numerous times, I can tell you that the Paw Paw area is a gem you don't want to miss. Whether you're a seasoned bikepacker or a weekend adventurer, the Paw Paw tunnel and the town of Paw Paw, just across the river, offer a unique blend of history, hospitality, and natural beauty that makes it a must-stop along your journey. And it is the only place to grab a drink and a bite between Oldtown and Little Orleans.
The Paw Paw Tunnel and campground, a few restaurants, some lodging, and Asleep at the Wheel!
The Legendary Paw Paw Tunnel (mm 156.2)
No trip through this stretch of the C&O Canal National Historical Park is complete without experiencing the Paw Paw Tunnel. This engineering marvel, designed to bypass six miles of the river called the Paw Paw Bends, was finished in 1850. It stretches over 3,100 feet through solid mountain and is one of the highlights of the entire canal. Riding up to the tunnel, you'll feel the temperature drop and the air grow damp—a welcome respite on a hot day.
The western end (upstream) retains its original appearance, while the eastern (downstream) entrance
has undergone modifications, including the recent stabilization of the cliffs adjacent to the towpath to remediate rockslides and the installation of a new boardwalk. The tunnel's lining is made of over six million bricks.
Don't forget your bike lights or headlamp; the tunnel is dark inside. Walking your bike is recommended due to the uneven surface, but the cool, echoing interior and the thrill of emerging back into daylight on the other side are worth every step.
Paw Paw Campground: A Cyclist's Haven (mm 156.1)
Just beyond the tunnel's west portal, you'll find the Paw Paw Campground—one of the more convenient campsites on the C&O Canal towpath. The campground offers potable water (seasonal), restrooms, picnic tables, and fire rings, making it an ideal spot for an overnight stay. It's peaceful, shaded, and usually has a friendly mix of fellow cyclists and hikers swapping stories around the campfire. Note that many websites identify the Paw Paw campground as a "Hiker/biker campsite".
It is a "fee area drive-in campground". Hiker/biker campsites are typically located about every 5-7 miles, are primitive, and include a Port-a-Potty, fire ring, a well with water that requires treatment, and a picnic table or two. Camping is limited to one night per site and is available at no cost. Hiker-bikers are mostly located 1-5 miles from the nearest vehicle parking. For more information: https://www.nps.gov/choh/planyourvisit/primitive-campsites.htm The nearest Hiker Biker Purslane Run (mm 157.4 near Paw Paw tunnel is west (upstream) of the paw Paw tunnel and campground, and Sorel Ridge hiker/biker located east (downstream) of Paw Paw tunnel.
There is a fee for using the Paw Paw Campground site, and reservations must be made through the park service's reservations website.
A Town Steeped in History
The town of Paw Paw itself dates back to the early 19th century, named after the
pawpaw, a native fruit of the region. In its heyday, Paw Paw, WV was a bustling canal and railroad town, with canal boats and locomotives bringing life and commerce to the valley. And Paw Paw is where Grammy-winning band Asleep at the Wheel was founded. Read about this interesting story of how The HOG farm of Woodstock fame found them in Paw Paw and how they opened with Alice Cooper...more
To get to town from the C&O Canal towpath, you need to cross into West Virginia, exiting the towpath via a hiker-biker path entrance adjacent to the MD Rt 51 bridge. A short six-tenths of a mile ride on the trail and bridge spanning the Potomac River, and you are in Paw Paw!
Refueling at Local Restaurants. These spots are cyclist-friendly and happy to share local tips or fill up your water bottles; all are within cycling distance of the towpath.
After a couple of hours in the saddle, nothing beats a satisfying meal. Paw Paw has several local diners and eateries—think hearty breakfasts, burgers, and homemade pie.
Big & Tiny's Tavern: Offering a variety of wings, burgers, and other casual fare.
Paw Paw American Legion: While a private club, visitors can access the club and enjoy burgers, pizza, fish, and specials. During my most recent visit, I scored a meatloaf dinner, which also included dessert, for only $12!
Listed as the Paw Paw Country Store, the Liberty Convenience Store is located just across the river. It features hot foods from their grill, cold sandwiches (try their Italian Sub), as well as standard convenience food items, including to-go beer.
Rest Your Legs: Lodging Options
If you prefer a soft bed to a sleeping pad, Paw Paw offers a couple of cozy options. There are local B&Bs and cabins, some of which even cater specifically to C&O riders, offering bike storage and laundry facilities. Booking ahead is a good idea, especially during peak cycling season.
Located just across the river are the Canal Cabins. These four quaint rustic-style
cabins (and everyone's favorite, the converted bus) are perfect for cyclists. They all feature air conditioning and heating, broadband Internet access, a Mini Fridge, a Microwave, a Hot and Cold Water Cooler, and a French Press Coffee Maker. Modern restrooms and showers are conveniently located adjacent to the laundry room, where you can use the washer and dryer at no additional charge. The bike-friendly cabins have different sleeping options. Guests are welcome to use the bike wash and bike tire patch kit! A fire pit, benches, and a picnic table are also available.
The Heritage Trail Inn is touted as the area's newest addition to the Lodging Scene. Owned and operated by lifelong residents, you'll find the comforts of home here, including Wi-Fi and a delicious breakfast in the morning! Call 304-947-7196 or 304-359-0075 to book.
Bikepath B&B boasts a super clean house, deep memory foam mattresses, and hot showers. Call 304-671-5153 to book your stay.
Final Thoughts
If you are in the area over Memorial Day, consider making plans to stop by and see how a small town celebrates the Holiday. For over 65 years, Paw Paw has honored its veterans and community spirit with the William H. Norton Memorial Day Parade—one of the town's most cherished traditions. Held each May, the event includes:
A classic car, truck, and tractor show with trophies and prizes
Food and craft vendors lining the streets
A wreath-laying ceremony and memorial service at the town square
A lively parade through town, complete with music, floats, and local heroes
The Pawpaw Festival
Each September, the town comes alive for the Pawpaw Festival WV, a celebration of the native fruit that gave Paw Paw its name. Held at the Municipal Park, the festival features:
Fresh pawpaw tastings
Live music and local food vendors
Craft booths and kids' activities
Educational talks on foraging, cultivation, and town history
Paw Paw, WV, is more than just a waypoint—it's a welcoming community with a rich history and plenty of cyclist amenities. Take a break, explore the tunnel, share a meal, and soak in the small-town charm. You'll ride away with great memories and maybe a few new friends.
About Steve:
Having recently sold his publishing business, Steve now has more time to devote
to his family and outdoor recreational pursuits, including fly fishing, skiing, and cycling. He is a C&O Canal Bike Patrol member, a member of the C&O Canal Association, Mountain Maryland Trails board of directors, and serves as a Commissioner on the C&O Canal National Historical Park Federal Advisory Commission.
Contact Steve: tristatetownplanner@gmail.com
Comments